Which drywall mud to use

This does make it less convenient than premixed compound, but it allows you to mix just as much as you need; you can save the rest of the dry powder for future use. Topping compound is sold in pre-mixed boxes or buckets, too, though, so you can purchase whichever type you prefer.

Topping compound is not recommended for embedding joint tape—the first coat on most drywall joints. When applied properly, a topping compound should reduce your sanding time in comparison to lightweight compounds, such as all-purpose mud. True to its name, a taping compound is ideal for embedding joint tape for the first phase of finishing drywall joints.

Taping compound dries harder and is more difficult to sand than all-purpose and topping compounds. Taping compound is also the best option if you need to cover plaster cracks and when superior bonding and crack-resistance are required, such as around door and window openings which tend to crack due to house settling.

It is also the best mud option for laminating drywall panels in multi-layer partitions and ceilings. Commonly called "hot mud," quick-setting compound is ideal when you need to finish a job quickly or when you want to apply multiple coats on the same day. Sometimes called simply "setting compound," this form is also useful for filling deep cracks and holes in drywall and plaster, where drying time can become an issue. If you are working in an area with high humidity, you might want to use this compound to ensure a proper drywall finish.

It sets by chemical reaction, rather than simple evaporation of water, as is the case with other compounds. This means that quick-setting compound will set in damp conditions.

Quick-setting mud comes in a dry powder that must be mixed with water and applied immediately. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendations prior to use. It is available with different setting times, ranging from five minutes to 90 minutes. Drywall joint compound comes in either of two forms: dry or wet. Dry joint compound is the classic type that has been used for years and is still used by professionals.

Wet joint compound is a newer product more aimed at the residential do-it-yourselfer. Both dry and pre-mixed joint compounds contain latex additives to add strength and flexibility. When mixed appropriately, both cover the same amount of drywall: about to pounds of compound covering about 1, square feet of drywall panels.

Joint compound in the dry form is a powder that usually comes in large paper bags. The dry product must be mixed with potable water in a separate container to form workable mud. This product is usually not labeled as being dry. Simply, it will be called joint compound with the qualifiers ready-mixed or pre-mixed omitted.

Spoils quickly and develops mold. To learn more about the different variations of pre-mixed and dry mud , continue reading this article. The quick-setting type of drywall compound, which is also known as hot mud , is typically used by professionals for covering small holes in the drywall.

This compound bonds better and dries harder, with better crack resistance than most other compounds. However, it is more difficult to use by DIYers mainly because of how fast the compound dries. Taping mud is ideal for embedding joint tape before finishing the drywall joints.

This compound dries harder and is more difficult to sand when compared to other pre-mixed muds. The first two layers are called taping mud, which is used to fill the joints between the wall sheets and its corners. This taping mud can in fact be used anywhere on the drywall where there is a gap between the sheets. A second coat will then need to be applied to further smooth out the tape. Topping mud is ideal for use after the two final coats of taping compound have been applied to the drywall joints.

This low-shrinkage mud goes on the drywall smoothly and boasts strong bonding power. It is also easy to work with. This can be seen as an inconvenience, but you can always save the rest of the unused powder for future use. It is never used as the first coat and most professional contractors advise against using it for the joints.

When applied correctly, this mud will reduce sanding time. The all-purpose mud is a pre-mixed type of compound sold in buckets. It is ideal for all phases of finishing, filling joints, finishing coats, and embedding joint tape, as well as for drywall texturing. This type of drywall mud has a slow drying time and is easy to work with, hence making it the preferred option for beginner DIYers. The light-weight version of all-purpose mud is true to its name light in weight and can be used for any application.

You should consider a more durable type of mud, such as the all-purpose mud instead. The lightweight version is generally used for the first and second coats of corners or seams only.

Best for: all types of light-weight applications as first and second coats. Step 1. Protect the floor and yourself from possible mud splatter: cover the floor using a fabric sheet and wear your safety goggles. Since mudding is a messy job, you must adequately protect your clothes and eyes.

When the bevels are fitted together, they form a small indentation, about 2 inches wide, along the joints. Use the 6-inch taping knife to smooth and work the mud evenly into the joint, filling the entire indentation and wiping away excess mud.

Wipe away excess mud with the knife. With the 6-inch knife, apply a thin coat of mud to both sides of an inside corner, making sure to work it all the way into the center.

Cut, fold, and fit a strip of pre-creased paper tape in the corner over the wet mud. Smooth the paper tape carefully in the wet mud, using either a 6-inch taping knife or an inside-corner taping tool that features a preformed degree shape for easy bedding. Use light stroking movements to bed the tape without dislodging it from the corner. Wipe excess mud from the walls. If using preformed tape corners, attach them as recommended by the manufacturer, and then smooth mud over the corners, using long vertical strokes on both sides to form a sharp, uniform corner.

You can avoid butt joints, which occur when un-tapered ends of a drywall panel are fitted together, by using sheets of drywall that span the entire room. Mud them as you did the beveled joints, taking care to use only as much mud as necessary to fill the joint and bed the tape.

Let all the mud dry before applying the next coat. Apply a second coat of mud to the screw indentations, beveled joints, and inside and outside corners in the same order as the first coat—only this time, use only mud. No need to add more tape! Just apply a thin layer of mud and wipe off all excess. To do a second coat for butt joints, take the inch taping knife, apply two swaths of mud, approximately 8 inches wide, along both sides of the first joint coat, but not on top of the original joint.

This imperceptibly builds up the wall depth over a wider area to reduce the appearance of a bulky butt-joint seam.